Poor Man's Gascolator & Safety Wire Hose Clamps
Water in the fuel is a problem to all aviators, not just Kolbers. An aircraft gascolator, mounting bracket and drain valve will set you back at least $74 plus shipping. Here is a cheaper alternative. Observe one each $1.99 Deutsch FF422 filter procured from the local Autozone, but similar automotive filters would also work equally well. This one is fairly small, it looks like it would hold just about two Bing float bowls worth of water. Bigger ones are available.

Drill, bore, or grind a hole in the bottom big enough to fit the rubber grommet, and then grub out all the guts from inside the filter, normally including a metal filter bottom, a bunch of paper and some glue, get rid of it all. When you get done, you have a water trap and a water drain, not a filter. You still need your normal filter between the gascolator and the engine.

You will end up with something like this: an open nylon water trap cavity with an inlet, an outlet, and an open place where all the paper filter stuff used to be. A 3/16" masonary drill bit in a slow speed drill, followed by some chiseling with a long screwdriver routed out the last of the filter retaining glue. The filter cap metal was thin, needle nose pliers and the metal snips persuaded it to come out of the hole.

Here are all the components laid out and ready to assemble, and then the finished product. Obviously the last 3/8" of water in the bowl will not go down the drain pipe, which is why some folks might rather pay more for the STC'd version: it drains all the water out.

Depending on where your gascolator is, you may need to plumb it to a drain at the fuselage bottom, this is my solution:

Melted a hole in the Stits, soldered a homemade copper flange to the 1/4" copper tubing on the top side of the fabric, and then just riveted it to the fabric with some nylon washers on the outside of the fabric.
All parts but the filter available from Aircraft Spruce, the Elbow is part #FTEB01@$1.95, the rubber grommet is part # FTB01@$.99, and the Curtis drain valve is part # CCA-1550@ $8.95. Total? $11.88 plus shipping.

Using eurethane tubing? Tired of leaks? Read on

Once you start plumbing all the fittings and connections on a Kolb, expecially one with two gas tanks, an auxiliary fuel pump, two carbs, etc, you will need a potfull of little hose clamps, and you will then discover that metal ones will leak, & nylon ones will get brittle after a few years. Wouldn't it be nice to get hose clamps almost free, that will not leak? It's possible, it's easy, it's good old safety wire.

Warning! This will not work with vinyl or plastic fuel line, the wire will cut through the tubing. It will not work with typical rubber automotive fuel line, use metal hose clamps instead.

This method works with .032 stainless safety wire and blue or clear eurethane fuel line, or yellow Tygon fuel line. I have never tried it with different sizes of wire, it is possible that smaller or bigger wire may cut through the eurethane, who knows?
After you have the tubing in place, wrap the safety wire around the tubing twice, laying it down flat and even. The wrappings should not overlap each other, the picture on the left sort of makes it look like the wire over laps itself, but it doesn't. You want the wire wrappings to lay alongside each other, and only overlap at the twist.

Then go ahead and spin the wire snug with the safety wire pliers, it doesn't have to have a death grip, it just needs to be tight enough not to leak, move, twist, or come off. Try and twist the tubing; if it won't twist or move, that's tight enough. Now trim the spun end to about 5/8" long. Take your needle noses and bend the end over out of the way towards the tubing's open end*, lest you run your finger or hand past it later on, cut the fool out of yourself, and then get blood stains on your nice shiny airplane. (Guess how I know this?) You now have a simple, expendable clamp that grips for the whole circumference of the tube, and costs less than a penny. With a little practice, you can make all of them look identical...

(*If the sharp end pokes the tubing, you want it poked somewhere harmless)
Assume that not all eurethane tubing is equal, we are not using STC'd stuff here, so just in case you get something inferior, you should practice making a few of these at the workbench, and spin the wire down excessively tight until it breaks. Then examine the tubing. There should be two slight dents in the eurethane tubing, but nothing more. If it looks at all like the wire is digging in too deep, scrap the idea, something is bogus, because normally the wire breaks long before the eurethane tubing even begins to yield. If it looks like the wire is cutting through, then you might even want to question that particular batch of tubing, because it shouldn't be happening. Make several practice runs, know what you're doing, develop a feel for what is enough, what is proper, and what is too much.

This method is cheap enough, simple enough, and quick enough that you have no excuse not to.

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