The Need For Speed...


20P originally had the standard windshield up to the wing, standard doors and a full Lexan rear enclosure. It worked OK, but in terms of drag, the MKIII is a badminton birdie on a grand scale. Picture pushing a large badminton cone through the air, and visualize how the air would swirl around the back side, and that's kinda' how it is. Also, the radiator mounted at the rear of the cage was originally inefficient because of the disturbed airflow caused by the windshield and doors. One of the first performance modifications I made to 20P was a shortened windshield. With the shortened windshield and doors, it cooled the engine very well. The picture on the left shows it in that configuration, and I flew it that way from 1996 to 2001.

 

 

In spring 2002, I changed the shape of the windshield, added an air scoop along the top of the windshield, enclosed the rear upper fuselage in an effort to be able to have an efficient radiator and an enclosed cockpit for winter flying. It did not work very well, so there are no pictures. Some things are better forgotten... During the spring of '03 I changed it to the configuration on the upper right, which was a great improvement. The upper rear cabin top was made of 1/16" Lexan, which could be opened along the side for summer ventilation, or closed in the winter. However the shape was not optimum, and the radiator cooling was marginal on hot days. During the spring of '08 I changed it to the way it looks in the two pictures below.

 

 

20P is now a true parasol wing configuration, there is a 5" gap between the bottom of the wing and the top of the windshield/turtledeck. Flight characteristics are very good, the fuselage is more streamlined and cuts the air more efficiently. Airspeeds fully enclosed are 50mph at 4500 rpm, 60mph at 5000 rpm, 70mph at 5400 rpm, 80mph at 5800 rpm, and around 86 mph at 6450 rpm, and that's flat out. The rate of climb is improved with the wing completely exposed, solo with full fuel on a summer day typically gives a climb rate of around 800-900'/minute@6250 rpm. In the winter, it gets even better, a climb rate of 1000-1200'/min @ 6250 rpm. These airspeed and climb numbers are an improvement over what the airplane would do new and in stock configuration, which shows just how adaptable to tweaking the MKIII really is.


The biggest hurdle the MKIII has to overcome in order to be efficient at cutting through the air is it's width, normally made even worse by the standard doors. Replacing the standard doors with flat doors reduces the width by a good margin. Something very important which is easily overlooked is the improvement of airflow into the prop. Stock, the top half of the prop is typically in clean air, and the bottom half of the prop is partially blanked, or in trashy air, caused primarily by the windshield which goes to the wing leading edge, and to a lesser extent, the bulging doors. This turbulence causes the top half of the prop to be more efficient than the bottom half, and requires more nose up trim to counteract the stronger push, or thrust vector above the airplane. By getting more clean air into the lower half of the prop, you increase total thrust, & you balance out the thrust vector much better, which reduces the amount of up elevator trim needed, which reduces drag.

 
 

The original doors were very convenient in that they could open and lay across the windshield when getting in or out, the current doors are not as convenient. That is as far as they go, and there is a prop that holds them open. However, they are not too bad, and since you only spend a minute getting in or out, and a lot longer than that flying, it is not a bad trade-off.


Something that I was not real happy with was the location of the muffler. Being hung out in the air alongside the engine surely wasn't helping air flow, so I moved it. I replaced the stock curlicue expansion pipe with the Quicksilver based 90 degree pipe, and hung the muffler behind the radiator, behind and below the engine, where it lies in air flowing between the wing and the cabin top. It is supported by two 1.5" x 1/8" aluminum angles that run under the stock motor mount plate, and stick out toward the rear. This also has the advantage of keeping the muffler in the same plane of vibration as the engine, instead of cantilevered out to the side, now it shakes a whole lot less. This muffler position will only fit if you have the Ivo prop hub extension or similar. Sorry, I don't know if the wings will still fold or not, because I don't fold mine, I take 'em off. The fuel pump is mounted on one of the muffler mounting angles, a convenient place. All fuel line is 1/4" aluminum fuel line tubing, joined with standard automobile rubber fuel hose.


The muffler is hung with rubber muffler hangers from Advance Auto Parts. ( Why not? ) I got tired of the Rotax exhaust springs breaking and fabricated some compression bolts to hold the various pieces of the exhaust in place. It uses 5/16" bolts compressing springs that are trapped by the bolts. This has proven to be a very reliable arrangement. The bolts gradually wear where they go through the brackets and can be replaced during annual condition inspection. The fairing in front of the engine is non-structural and is made from .024 2024T3 which attaches to the fuel tank via piano hinges epoxied to the top of the fuel tank. It supports and streamlines the oil injection tank, which came off a Murray lawn mower, holds 1.5 gallons, and was free. There is a tubular sight gauge running down the back side of the oil tank so you can see how much oil is in it. The fairing also houses two Hobbs meters, one for the airframe, and one for the engine. That way I don't have to do any math... The fairing is for eliminating the turbulence formed by the black nitrogen launching canister for the parachute, and redirects the airflow around the oil tank and engine. Don't know how much it improves the total streamlining equation, but it can't hurt, and it makes a great place to put the Hobbs and the oil tank.

Those nice plastic fairings that Kolb uses to streamline the lift struts also work great on the landing gear. You may not think that would make much difference, but the first time I flew after installing them, the airplane wanted to fly nose high, and required noticable retrimming. That means some drag was eliminated.


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